Archive for March, 2009

Horrific scene

Just now, across the street from the coffee shop where I work, policemen and firefighters pulled what seems to be the body of a homeless man from inside the forbidden city’s moat.

Some crowed is gathered around but mostly the city just continues it’s hectic pace. The body lies there, two crutches lie on the ground beside it, police cameras around. Very sad scene to watch on this pretty spring day, at the North-east corner of the palace museum. The coffee shop proprietor keeps murmuring: His belly is so big, he must have been dead a few days. Awful. Hope it ain’t true.

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Oh no, not again – Youtube update

Seems like after a short relief this weekend, the tube is blocked again (sigh). I don’t mind it so much, just wish the nanny would make up her mind. Being consistent is the golden rule of good education

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Dance of the liberated serfs

Or propaganda machines uses outdate manual?

Liberated serfs making a bonfire of feudal sutras in the alternative universe exhibition in Beijing

Liberated serfs making a bonfire of feudal sutras in the alternative universe exhibition in Beijing

Last week, members of the vile western foreign media were invited to visitthe “50th anniversary of the democratic reforms in Tibet” exhibition. Party officials and “Tibet experts” were promised so few reporters, myself included, ventured to the “Minority cultural palace” to enjoy the show.

Most journalists on site were actually Xinhua folks, trying to interview foreign journalists about how their attitude, historical understanding and whole lives were changed by the event. Guess from this Xinhua slideshow they couldn’t squeeze enough sympathetic quotes to run a news item. Oh well, they’ve had better luck this week, when diplomats were invited to visit the same exhibition. That event, if you believe Xinhua’s headline, which you should, “Dispelled foreign ambassador’s misconceptions about Tibet”. Not bad for a few wax figures.

My personal favourite, except the dancing serfs shown above, was a “Demonstration aimed at showing the vast gap between the living standards of the ruling elite in feudal Tibet and that of the common people”. Loved the scene because it looked almost exactly like the scene in my Hutong, which sports a combination of newly renovated Siheyuans and crumbling slums. I’m always trying to be optimistic about China so will assume the designer was being ironic.

Seriously though. They put it nicely at the “China Media Project“, with a lengthy analysis of media sources and the inevitable question: What’s the point??? Why putting so much effort into anachronistic propaganda slogans that only serve to alienate everyone, and is being at any rate ignored in foreign countries?

What I’d really want to know (but probably never will) is: does anyone up there actually think there is a point? I’d understand if they would have just ignored the world’s opinion, but this… really diminish the CCP’s reputation for competence, doesn’t it?

The only explanation I can think of is that this is all done exclusively to manage public opinion within China: Doesn’t matter what the Lao-wai jurnos say, just get some footage of them being lectured on Tibetan history, which is fine, but even then, there are better ways to do it, right? This cultural revolution era rhetoric isn’t even appealing to many Chinese anymore. Is it possible the Ministry of Truth is unaware of that?

Take the recent blocking of Youtube (bloody annoying btw, guess I will get that VPN after all): Allegedly the tube is blocked because of that beaten monks video but hey, why not allow it, then let the Fenqings take care of the rest. They’ll be all too haapy to rip it apart and prove to the whole world it’s fake*  – or at least prove it to themselves, but They are the ones that matter anyway.

I will never understand China.

 

* I’m not expressing an opinion here on whether the video is fake or authentic. I’m just saying he fenqings will prove it fake either way.

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A word in defence of Beijing’s humanity
Dongsi South. not al that bad is it?

Dongsi South. not al that bad is it?

 

dscn0822The always interesting and observant James Fallows recently wrote about the differences between Beijing and Shanghai in terms of architecture and ambiance, followed by another post with somewhat unflattering photos of the Jing. The Peking Duck followed suit, going as far as to say the JIng lacks soul.

It came from left field, in a way,  as I’ve always felt the opposite was true about both cities, but maybe I’m thinking of a different part of Beijing than those guys (I try not to go outside the second RR unless absolutely necessary).  Anyway, doing my daily Hutong walk this afternoon I think I figured out what is it that I love about Beijing.

 

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It is indeed designed to be larger than life, and you can’t even blame that on the commie regime – I believe it was designed this way from the start, being an emperial city. The truly wonderful thing about Beijing though, is that it completely defies the role its rulers thought out for her, insisting on being the people’s capital rather then the emperor’s. It is evident anywhere from the kites flown above TAM, to the small vendors everywhere, even under mega-bridges and giant turnpikes.

The dissonance between China’s basic humanity and intrinsic brutality is exactly what makes this country so fascinating, and nowhere is is more evident than here in the Jing. It seems that humanity, or rather, every-day’s human life, human spirit, or, if you will, soul, always win  here somehow, and it is really nice to see. In a way, I’m glad Beijing is built the way it does, as it serves to reinforce its charm and unique Chineseness. It also makes it a great place to live in.

 

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More evolution, and Whole lot o’ cultural differences

China Geeks have created quite a stir, not to say a gush of feelings, with this post, “Racism in China”, proving once again that there are things you just can’t say.

I don’t really want to go into the “is China racist” thing, as it seems pretty obvious to me there is racism in China, just as in any other place, but little out right racial activity, so I just don’t see it as a very pressing matter.

Was more interested in the very feverish, borderline violent response by Hecaitou saying, in short, that an American, and metaphorical descendant of slave owners, has no business calling a Chinese a racist.

hmmm.

It came just after a week in which I experienced few misunderstandings, all related to cultural differences or perhaps cultural blind spots, so this response made me wonder a bit. here are the stories:

A friend from Poland living here in the Jing told me he has to be careful about attending any event related to the Chinese government, though it’s part of his job, because in Poland there is hypersensitivity for anything even remotely perceived as cooperation with a communist regime.

I’ve learned this week, in relation to this very interesting and moving story, that in Israel you simply can’t say “Good Nazi” . If you have (which I did) you’d spend precious time explaining you’re not actually trying to find a positive side to Nazism, though you may as well give it up, as no one is willing to listen. (OK this one admittedly I should have known but somehow still tripped right into the pitfall).

A Jewish American friend argued with me that the average Chinese is a bit antisemitic. He based it on many conversations in which Chinese people told him Jews are smart, and control the American economy (which is kind of a contradiction in terms as it would suggest the people controlling the US economy are smart, but whatever).  Now of course I’ve heard the same generalizations, as have anyone who identifies herself as Jewish in China, but it has never accrued to me to relate this to antisemitism. Guess in a way it’s a similar case to China Geeks and the offensive caricature, demonstrating American sensitivities.

So what’s my point, as this is getting long and falttery? The point is, everyone has a blind spot, or sensitivities you just can’t reason with. I think for many Chinese having foreigners (especially white foreigners from developed countries) criticizing them is intolerable. It drives the discussion straight over the cliff and into the messed abyss of 19Th century colonialism, bruised national pride, the Opium Wars and all that jazz. A lot of Chinese, Hecaitou himself  included, I suspect, are quite critical of their society themselves, they just don’t want to hear it from us.

This is not to say I agree with Hecaitou, or that I like any of this. I think all of the above examples represent a tendency to see things that aren’t there, but this is how it works, and old wounds heal very, very slowly, thus preventing necessary operations. It is true just anywhere.

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Is China relaxing a bit?

Or is Axl Rose that irrelevant?  spotted in a Beijing record store (Not at all hidden)

Chinese Democracy

Chinese Democracy

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Numbers numbers everywhere

The Chinese economy has to grow 8% this year. No, really it got to, seriously. if not, horrible, horrible things will happen. Really. IT HAS TO GROW 8% THIS YEAR.

But of course, it wont. It can’t, and any growth of less then the above magic number will be evident of the coming collapse and doom of the eastern empire. Actually it is falling into recession as we speak. why, don’t you hear the shrilling sound? exports are down 25.7 percent in February!!! people have stopped buying stuff they don’t need!* how can a civilization ever get past this.

but hey, there’s the stimulus! Stimulus is working!  in fact, Stimu’s impact is already felt everywhere.

 except in Gunagdong. the numbers in Guangdong are really awful.

Maybe this is why the market don’t really believe stimu. except when it does, which it will next week when world markets will rise again on good news from China.

Whatever the numbers, the important thing is to remember: long term success is measures by one thing and one thing alone: whether the 2009 GDP can hit the magic number, which is 8%, but if it’s 7.8%, China will collapse for sure, so in my opinion, it’s quite unnecessary, not say a waste of time, to draw long term plans for reform in health care, education, the legal system, your kitchen design or rural land ownership. Better go buy something and help boost the GDP up to 8%.  

 

* To be fair, people haven’t really stopped buying things they don’t need. They’ve merely slowed down a bit.

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Beating the Grass Mud Horses

One can always tell when a trend has exhausted itself: when the mainstream media picks it up. Surprisingly it’s not just the NYT, but also Beijing TV, according to this amuzing post on Danwei.  China Media Project also translted a piece about the beloved Caonima from southern Weekly, who “Joins netizens battle against censorship” by printing a story about a fictional pet. Only in China.

Some of the irony has clearly escaped all those reports if they haven’t noticed that the Lively and smart Grass mud horses are really, errr,  sheep, which I think makes perfect sense and also a lot of greenhouse gases.

 

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Reading Lolita in Lhasa

Few more words on the Tibet debate:

I was (again) reading bits of Azar Nafisi’s wonderful piece of work “Reading Lolita in Tehran” and it made me wonder where this whole word war over Tibet is going, and who is fighting it anyway.  Nafisi, recounting the horrors of living under the Ayatollahs rule, sees the Iranian regime’s biggest sin not necessarily in torturing people, banning free speech, or executing its opponents. No, according to her, the cardinal sin is lack of empathy: forcing people to live their lives according to someone Else’s ideals (pious Islamic lady, peace loving, spiritual Buddhist monk, happy resident of the socialist paradise etc).

Lolitas in Tehran. Image from wikipedia

Lolitas in Tehran. Image from wikipedia

In Nafisi’s world of literary fiction, the embodiment of such cruelty is Nabokov’s Humbert Humbert: not just for raping Lolita, but for denying her of herself to shape her into the creature of his fantasies. To Nafisi, this is a crime far worse than any physical violation.

I’m truly saddened to see in the Tibet debate this very same behaviour, and from all parties involved. Not once have I seen a true attempt to ask what a person in Tibet wants. Western “Supporters” want to gain back the magical land of snows, The Dalai Lama apparently wants to preserve a culture that has long been dead, the Chinese authorities only want to present happy dancing minorities. What do Tibetans want? Even after quite a few visits to Tibet, I have no idea. It’s just so hard to see past the political blah blah.

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The Freeman case

I did not intend to comment on the Chas Freeman controversy, as it is mainly an American affair, and I’m neither American, nor particularly interested in American politics.

However, it was interesting to follow a debate that had to do with the U.S. attitude towards both my homeland (Israel) and my adopting country (China), and I tend to agree with Freeman’s views on both. Reading his forceful exit remarks today (thanks to James Fallows), I found myself again nodding in agreement. Just look at this paragraph:

I believe that the inability of the American public to discuss, or the government to consider, any option for US policies in the Middle East opposed by the ruling faction in Israeli politics has allowed that faction to adopt and sustain policies that ultimately threaten the existence of the state of Israel.  It is not permitted for anyone in the United States to say so.

Well, luckily I’m not in the United States but in China so I enjoy the freedom of speech and am permitted to say so. Freeman is absolutely right, and things aren’t being made any better by the fact that the “ruling faction” in Israeli politics is an increasingly corrupt and reckless one. I doubt if many Americans realise how far Israel has deteriorated – in every possible way-  this last decade under the unrelenting support of the U.S.

Just something I wanted to say. From now on, China issues only.

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