In one sentence: A whole bunch of strange creatures, and a surreal atmosphere

6-4

00:36 The Very Important Journalists: Came across them on our way to the square, from where they’ve just came back from the danger zone. VIJ (not the one who write the linked post, just to make clear) tell about their detention of whole 15 minutes and how the square itself is completely sealed and of limits for visitor. Wait, isn’t it always closed at night? ummm, it’s definitely closed tonight.

Well guess other nights, people don’t bother so much checking the situation at the square.

00:45 Rickshaw Men: Want riksha? want riksha? Hutong tour? Do you think they’re undercovers? Some 3 police vans, all ready for detainees are parked at the junction of Chizijie and Changan.

00:46 The Laowais: passing us by on the way out, shouting “The party is over”

00:47 The girl in pink: She is sitting on a stone slab right outside the gate of heavenly peace (Tiananmen). Two more police cars, many policemen and plainclothes dudes looking tired and bored, playing with their umbrellas

01:03 The happy family:just at exit of the underpass at the north-east corner, a mother and a girl who look maybe 4 or 5, walking together with another woman. You think they are undercovers? Ummm, dunno, could it be that they are recruits in the battle for defending the harmonious society? One thing I always liked about TAM is the place’s unique way of making everyone completely paranoid even in the best of days. The oddest thing about tonight is how un-odd it is, how completely normal everything seems: policemen, the odd group of tourists, homeless sleeping and a very quiet, deserted, giant patch of concrete.

01:06 The Reader: A very young man under a street lamp north of the square, reading a book. an old place to be reading a book for sure. few steps for him another girl sitting, keeping an eye on two small travel bags, as if she’s waiting for someone. As we look, a policemen approaches the boy, asking for his name and purpose.

01:10 Forty somethingyears old man says hello and starting talking to us in good English. Another, younger man hangs around, maybe listening. “This is a special night, a very special night. I was here 20 years ago, the army came from there (points west) and my friend was killed” . can you tell what happened inside TAM? “Oh, I was not here, I was in Tianjin at the time, but many friends were here. Are you Italians”?

01:15: The good cop : Past the Great Hall of the People, a police car swings toward us. A smiling young policeman, almost endearing in his round face and casual salute, asks to see passports (actually he just said the word “Passports” in English. “We haven’t got them, left’em at the hotel”. He tries again but gives up after realising we don’t speak a word of Chinese, and tells us to go home.

01:22 The uygurs: A Happy throng of Xinjiang youngsters passing by, laughing. They will stay around for a while, taking photos of themselves. I they are secret police, than they are the best so far in terms of secrecy and good cover.

01:30: Forty somethingand his friend are talking with the police near Tiananmen (the gate). Later we will speculate a lot on whether FS was an undercover policeman. Now they stare at us, we stare back, A. decides to go home. Two teenagers on a bicycle filming, dashing aways as soon as one of the umbrella dudes gets near.  

01:40  The Studentis sitting beside the girl in pink, staring. Says he’s from Hebei, came to Beijing just for the day, to be in the square. “No, people don’t remember, but I do”. A car slows down on Changan Avenue, a girl takes a photo then drives off.

01:45 A Police car approaches which implies it’s time to go home. Another smiling policeman speaks Chinese which I pretend not to understand. “Wait a minute” he says and calls for help. The trick of not speaking Chinese normally help to shake off annoying officials but not this time.

01:52 Officer Zhao is an angry law enforcer wearing the strangest plainclothes so far tonight: A wifebeater, showing off very nice arms, and black training pants. No umbrella. He speaks decent English and tries almost comically to sound angry and intimidating.

Passport? It’s at home? Do you know you are breaking the law not carrying a passport?

I did not know that. Sorry (I assume his goal is to intimidate me into going away, which is what I want to do anyway as it’s late and I’m all for remembering tragic events but not to the extent of being sleep deprived on a working day tomorrow, when I’m scheduled for an awesome sushi lunch).

Oh, oh, you didn’t know? really? you didn’t know? how come there are some laws you know and some you don’t? You can choose: I can fine you 500 dollars or send you off with a warning but you’d be fined 1000 dollars if you get caught again.

Almost had in mind to agree to ask for the 500 dollars fine to see how he pulls it off but was too tired to play tricks. Angry Zhao notifies me that journalists should ask for a permit(!) to visit the square. Everyday or just today? Oh, these few days, on other days it’s OK. So much for “Just another day” 

 -So, do you promise to go home now? you promise you didn’t take any photos? You will go straight home? Do you want us to get a taxi for you?

Yes, actually, that will be nice.

02:15 Home

Lesson of the day: If you have troubles getting a taxi in Beijing, try get in trouble with the secret police.